Two Weekends of Timberline Spur Trails Part 2: Cooper Spur

Joe made it pretty clear the night before that he had no intention of hiking let alone waking up at 5am again. Knowing it was going to be another day of good weather, I couldn't bring myself to let it go to waste. So I packed up the dog this time and was on the route before 6am. The road up to the trailhead was treacherously bumpy, something neither Nami nor I appreciated very much as a means to wake up, but the sunrise and view of Mount Rainier in the distance eased some of the discomforts. 

Cloud Cap Road

We arrived at the trailhead and while there were many campers, the trail itself was empty. The trail started with an immediate uphill, not a surprise considering I had done that section during our backpacking trip. Unlike before, I diverted right after half a mile and found myself on the Tilly Jane trail. A wonderful little trail crawling across a sandy ridge with a beautiful view of Mount Hood in the front and a backward view of Mount Adams and Mount Rainier in the distance. 

The view north from Eliot East trail

Heading back towards the Cooper Spur Trail

Nami chased a few errant squirrels and enjoyed some of the few small patches of snow while I took in the mountain views right in front of me. 

The uphill was gradual and so Nami and I just meandered our way slowly up. I could see the infamous Eliot Creek hundreds of feet below carving through the sandy canyon. A creek that during our Timberline Trail hike tested our bravery as we crossed it but looks quite innocent from afar.

Eliot Creek

Soon we reached a junction where we needed to climb again, up another sandy, rocky ridge until we reached the point where it leveled off. We were treated to more sweeping views of the Cascades and I could see a few stray hikers making their way up the alternative route. 

More sweeping views north of the Cascades

The path continued then, zigzagging slowly up towards Hood, a few stray patches of snow, but nothing of any consequence. Nami enjoyed the freedom of being off leash since we didn't encounter any hikers and our position on the mountain paired with such a sparse landscape gave me the advantage of being able to see if anyone was coming or going. 

Over halfway up I encountered an outcropping of rocks, likely a shelter used for campers to avoid the wind, and stopped for a quick snack while giant ravens contemplated a coup to try and steal my food. 

Nami happily licked my peanut butter-scented fingers before we continued our journey up another sandy ridge right towards the mountain in front of us. 

Mount Hood with Mount Jefferson to the far south

I stopped where the ridge narrowed considerably and turned to rocks, this is the path where bold mountaineers continue to the top, but for me and my little dog, this was our turnaround point as I had no desire to scale a snow-covered mountain top alone and ill-equipped. 

The view east

So back down the windy trail, this time passing more hikers who hadn't risen quite so early in the day, this time taking the right trail instead of the left that would bring us a different way back to the trailhead. 

We passed the Copper Spur Trail Shelter and took in our last sweeping views before heading into the trees.

Cooper Spur Shelter

We continued down the steep path with Polallie Canyon to our right and trees to our left before taking the trail left.

Polallie Canyon

the A-frame cabins at Tilly Jane, all of them empty this late in the season and wound our way back through the campground to our car. It's not often I hike without Joe and the last time it was just me and the dog was over a year ago, but we make a good team when we aren't both trying to keep up with Mr. Long Legs, I think Nami appreciates. Not to mention, I'm way more generous with my snacks. 

Two Weekends of Timberline Spur Trails Part 1: McNeil Point and Cathedral Ridge

The last two Sundays have been spent filling in the gaps from our Timberline Trail adventure from July. While we completed the entire Timberline Trail loop, we left some unfinished business on two side trails we had initially aimed to add, but ultimately decided were too ambitious with fully loaded backpacks. 

First I need to preface this entry with the disclaimer that we normally hike on Saturdays, but with the beginning of autumn in Oregon and a very busy last few weeks of work, the hiking schedule has become a game of hike when the weather is good and when other life things haven't intruded on the weekend plans. Also, hiking on Sunday means very little motivation for anything post-hike, like let's say, writing up a blog entry. 

That's how we found ourselves last weekend with the intent to hit McNeil Point and progress up the ridge as far as we felt capable or until it ended. Saturday was predicted to be unusually warm and quite honestly neither of us had the energy to haul ourselves 3000+ feet up a mountain let alone with a full day of sun. What we failed to realize is that Sunday is traditionally our day of rest aka mosey around the house doing little chores and so when the alarms went off at 5am neither of us moved. I lay in bed telling myself if I fell back asleep I would just scrap the idea of hiking. Ten minutes later and I was still awake so hiking it was! It was dark almost the entire way to the trailhead and the sun was just starting to creep over the mountain on the approach trail.

The Top Spur approach trail to McNeil Point

Despite the initial lack of motivation, we progressed quickly and we were glad to have waited a day since the weather, while under normal circumstances might be classified as cool, was perfect for the rigorous uphill climb. The summit of Mount Hood was dusted with fresh snow from heavy rains earlier in the week and encased in clouds and while this might ruin the view for most, I actually found the clouds spectacular and watched them cresting over the mountain like ocean waves. 

Video: Clouds passing over the summit of Mount Hood

We reached McNeil Point shelter after a pretty impressive uphill climb but didn't linger long since we still had a second uphill to tackle. 

McNeil Point Shelter

The wind was fierce, that paired with the steep and exposed uphill, made for a bit of a treacherous climb. A couple times I had to stop and wait for the gust to die down before proceeding in order to maintain my footing. 

Once we got to Ho Rock and Cathedral Ridge it was a spectacular sight and no photo will ever capture how outer-worldly it felt. A modern-day Mount Olympus, formidable and beautiful. 

We edged along Cathedral Ridge a little way but didn't want to go too far past where the trail ended since this trail is used by mountaineers and climbers to summit the mountain and we do not fall into that category.  

We sat down next to a jagged line of rocks to shield ourselves from the wind while we enjoyed our well-deserved PB&J sandwiches. As much as we wanted to spend hours surrounded by 360 degrees of views, it was still Sunday and we still wanted to have some weekend left and get off the mountain before the heat came. 

The view from Ho Rock

For once the way down lacked any fanfare and was a gradual drop back to the Timberline Trail (a familiar sight) and then it was an easy five miles down to the car. We both agreed Sunday hikes were not ideal, I didn't know at the time, but I'd find myself doing yet another Sunday hike a week later, this time alone. 

Stay tuned for my solo adventure! 

Joe's Account of Drift Creek Falls

I did things a little differently for this entry. I had Joe share his experience at Drift Creek Falls thinking it might be more interesting. I edited it and chimed in occasionally, but the opinions and ideas are his own.

It all started first with the threat of heavy rain followed by a bribe. Chelsea promised me a post-trail breakfast at Otis Cafe in Lincoln City - one of my favorites. I just didn’t think the journey to get there would be as difficult as it turned out.

We left very early, it was so dark and rainy I couldn’t see where I was even going. I took a wrong turn resulting in an accidental detour through construction. Nami whined the whole drive.

After what seemed like hours (Joe's exaggerating, it was less than two) we arrived at the forest road that would lead to the trailhead and I was greeted by an even windier road than before. I had to dodge downed branches and at one point had to stop and get out to clear away rocks from a slide. It was about that point when I turned to Chelsea and asked “Just where are you taking me?” Her reply was not reassuring when she just reiterated the name of the trailhead (well at least I didn't lie about it right?)

We finally made it to the parking lot, at that point it was pissing rain even more than before, something I didn’t even think was possible. We were the only car there because of course, nobody would be this crazy to hike in this mess. (We aren't crazy hon, just adventurous). 

We started walking and became instantly soaked, even with our raincoats it didn’t matter. It felt miserable but secretly it was enjoyable and we actually started jogging downhill to the waterfall.

Video: Trail running down to the falls

After lots of twists and turns through muddy puddles, we finally made it to a beautiful suspension bridge above the falls.

Video: A view of the falls from the suspension bridge

At that point, I knew I had to climb down to the bottom. The only thing standing in our way was an intense muddy incline where we had to use a rope to repel down. 

I saw Chelsea slip and slide on her butt partway, she was fine, but I guess it’s a good thing she had bought new hiking tights with a built-in butt pad. Then it was my turn. I made it down, the water from the falls felt and sounded like a hurricane it was rushing so fast around me.

Video: The bottom of the falls

My glasses were instantly covered in mist so I couldn’t see out of them. I didn’t stay at the bottom long because of poor visibility so I made my way back up the rope. We climbed back up the hill to the suspension bridge again.

Chelsea jogged in front of me and Nami started to follow but the bridge was so wobbly in the wind Nami stopped and froze herself to one spot. I had to pick her up and carry her the rest of the way. 

Video: Chelsea running across the bridge

We started the short slog back to the car in the rain and mud. We made it back completely soaked but it was finally time to go get breakfast. 

After a quick change of clothes in the still completely empty parking lot, we were back on the road. Chelsea suggested a shortcut, guess what, another incredibly windy gravel road! (Joe always acts surprised as if I can control these things). After what felt like a millennium (nice exaggeration) we made it to Lincoln City and the Otis Cafe.

But the parking lot was completely full and the line was out the door. I immediately though, “Nooooo what do we do?!” We both looked at each other and said “I’m not waiting for that,” so we decided to drive through town and find something else. But every parking lot was full! The only option was a place called Pig 'N Pancake but Chelsea said the food looked gross online (it really did) and there was also a line out the door.

So we decided to just cut our losses and drive towards home and eventually find somewhere else. We ended up in McMinnville where Chelsea found a promising spot, a diner ironically named “The Diner”. Victory at last! And it was delicious. 

When Chelsea first suggested this hike, on such a piss poor day, a hike she had chosen last minute when the weather crapped out on us, I didn’t think it would be all that great. Surprisingly it turned out better than I thought. Most of the time I can trust my wife when making decisions, but sometimes not. (He says as if he ever plans any of our adventures...). Like suggesting to go to a popular cafe at the beach during prime bunch hour. 

Distance Logged ~ 3 mi

Ascent 730 ft

Descent 730 ft 

Disappointment on Dog Mountain

I heard about Dog Mountain the first summer I moved to Oregon. It had a reputation for being brutal, everyone always talked about how much of a leg burner it was. In addition to the hard workout, it was also toted as having amazing views of the gorge. So it’s been a hike on my list for some time and I decided to finally check that box.

The day started off on the wrong foot. I had set my alarm for 5 am but for some reason, it didn’t go off and I woke up 30 minutes late. Then en route, my traffic navigation app said that the Bridge of the Gods was closed for a race so we had to take the slow way to the trail. Turns out the bridge was actually open ugh. Despite the drive taking 20 additional minutes, it was fine, we still got to the trailhead before it was super busy.

The hike started off uphill, no problem, I expected as much. After the first set of switchbacks, there is a sign telling you there are two choices to get to the summit - difficult and very difficult. 

Can you guess which one we picked? The very difficult trail wasn’t even the bad part, it was actually fine since we prefer to just go up instead of dealing with annoying switchbacks. It was hard and slow going but didn’t require much stopping since it was just steady uphill the whole time without any rock scrambling. We’ve definitely done worse. But honestly, it was boring. No views, just trees. It’s okay though, I mean we were climbing a mountain so the views would be epic at the top right?

We hit the first lookout and yeah, you’ve got a view of the gorge but I felt a bit underwhelmed.

So we kept going with the assumption the summit would be more breathtaking. Oh, how we were wrong. The summit was so overgrown that there wasn’t much of a view and the trail just sort of vanishes into the bushes. Just a small glimpse of the tip of Mount Hood through some trees. Are you telling me we just climbed 3000ft and had no view? What kind of twisted hike is this?

So we headed down and diverted to the difficult route back, hit just one viewpoint, realized it wasn’t any more amazing, and rated the hike 1.5 stars. 

Maybe we are being too harsh, I mean technically we did have views of the gorge. Maybe our boredom with the views was a result of having driven down the gorge so many times it’s no longer mind-blowing. 

Or perhaps it's something else entirely. We’ve hiked enough trails that we know what a good payoff looks like in terms of effort given. So when a hike has that much of a climb and makes the promise of views our expectations are quite high. Especially when there are other hikes in the gorge with more beautiful scenery for less effort.

So all in all, a great hike if you want sore glutes and a tired dog, but not so great if you want to be swept off your feet.

Distance Logged 6.5 mi

Ascent 2978 ft

Descent 2978 ft 

Wallowa East Eagle Loop Day 5: Crater Lake to Upper East Eagle Creek TH

After our brief stint of rain and hail, we were treated to a fairly warm night for our last. And by warm I mean it was only forty-two degrees but that felt like summer after the sub-freezing temps of our previous two nights.

We both woke early before six just as the sun was rising. I had spent the night having dreams of food. I guess after four days of hiking the famous hiker hunger had fully set in and it’s all I could think about. I'm not exaggerating, it consumed my every thought. 

As fast as we set up camp the night before we broke it down even faster and we managed to be walking by seven. Our packs were light on our backs, completely empty of food and with just enough water for our return trek so we both felt amazing. 

Leaving Crater Lake just after sunrise

We only had a six-mile descent back to the car and we were initially quite worried it was going to be a knee buster after speaking to other hikers. Luckily it wasn’t as steep as expected since it was a gradual drop the entire way. A couple sections were a little iffy due to erosion, but for the most part, it was fairly easy going.

Our descent back to East Eagle Creek

About halfway down I spotted some very distinct bear prints with clear front and hind prints differing in size and shape. I knew they were fresh since the rain the previous day had wiped all other prints away. The distinct prints were then followed by bear scat and lots of it, but that was the only sign of any bears.

Saw lots of prints here. but no bears

Before we knew it we were walking along Little Kettle Creek which added a lovely soundtrack to the walk then eventually through quiet forests where I could hear the occasional owl or bird. Finally, we saw them, the cars at the trailhead. I was a little sad to see the parking area since that meant the end to our amazing adventure. But then the bright spot, pizza.

Finished!

Now comes a story that has nothing to do with backpacking and everything to do with two desperately hungry hikers. It's probably also one of those "you had to be there" stories.

For two days straight, all Joe and I talked about was hitting the Mod Pizza we had sworn we had seen in Baker City during our stay. We had a long hour and a half drive back and once I regained cell reception I went online to look up the hours and exact address. Only to discover there was no Mod Pizza in Baker City. Nor in La Grande which we had passed through. Or in Pendleton where we planned to stay the night. 

Joe and I scratched our heads because we swore we had seen one en route and it was starting to drive us nuts that one didn't exist. We even went as far as to drive around Baker City for thirty minutes absolutely convinced it existed and Google was just wrong. 

After a lot of reflection, we realized it had actually been in The Dalles where we had fueled up. A town that was halfway from where we were and home. 

We laughed at ourselves, how could both our memories be so terribly wrong? Maybe we were just trying to manifest one in Baker City since we wanted it so bad. Like I said, we had talked about it nonstop for two days, that's how much we wanted it to exist. So we ended the trip without any pizza but laughing at our self-inflicted misfortune. 

Our Trip Highs and Lows (Mountains and Valleys)

Joe's High: Traversing Horton Pass
Chelsea's High: Having a staring contest with a mountain goat

Joe’s Low: Setting up his tent in the rain (he wasn't as fast as me)
Chelsea's Low: Putting on a frozen sports bra in freezing temps at 6am

Distance Logged 6.2 mi

Ascent 597 ft

Descent 3653 ft 

Wallowa East Eagle Loop Day 4: Frazier Lake to Crater Lake

Our day started out as a winter wonderscape. More so than the previous. A thick layer of frost covered every piece of exposed gear turning my blue backpack white and giving my tent a thick layer of frost. Our water was partially frozen and the minute we added water to our cook pots for breakfast, it too began to form ice. You don't know cold hands until you have to stuff your frozen tent into a small stuff sack. 

Brrrrrrrr

We counted our blessings for predicting the cold snap and sleeping with our water filters. A frozen water filter is no good since it can actually make it useless and while we have emergency backup tablets we would rather not use them. Breaking down camp wasn’t fun in the sub-freezing temps, but we were motivated by the desire to move our frigid bodies to create warmth. So despite numb hands and numb everything else we somehow got the packs loaded up.

We knew that our day was going to start off with a bang as we needed to traverse Hawkins Pass within a mile from camp. My sore limbs were still so frozen that my brain couldn’t register any other feeling other than cold so that was a blessing. As we slowly made our way up the switchbacks we darted in and out of patches of the rising sun. Each patch of warmth felt like heaven and was just motivation to reach the next one. It felt like nature rewarding us for our effort, as if to say, "Don't worry, I've got your back as long as you keep going forward."

We passed by Little Frazier Lake, a beautifully picturesque lake nestled between mountains. 

Little Frazier Lake

We had just started the real ascent when both Joe and I were struck with the same horror or needing to use the restroom and pronto. I don’t share much bathroom talk, some people can’t even fathom pooping in the woods let alone having it be considered a totally normal occurrence, but digging cat holes and carrying around used t.p. is just one of those things we've completely accepted and gotten used to. 

The mixture of dehydrated food, heavy exertion, and altitude changes create the perfect trifecta though, and more often than not when you need to go, you need to go. Immediately. Thank goodness for a small patch of trees wedged against a cliff because otherwise, someone may have gotten a show they had no intention of ever seeing. 

See that patch of trees to the right of Joe? Yeah.

So with that obstacle out of the way and feeling lighter in every sense, we continued up the pass. 

The last photo I took before the top

We made fairly good time, and by we, I mean that I made good time, because Joe always makes good time. Passes are my favorite climbs because immediately you are treated with a fantastic view of the other side that is completely new to you. We had a quick snack and talked to a fellow hiker who arrived a few minutes later, but moved on quickly since we still had many miles to tackle.

The top of Hawkins Pass

Video: Starting the descent down the pass

Here’s where my day got infinitely better. I should mention before starting this adventure I had a personal bucket list of things I hoped to see. After our stint at Glacier Lake, I was convinced that I was out of luck but as I was slowly making my way down the pass, Joe farther ahead leading, I heard a hiker from below shout "GOAT!!"

I turned around and there they were, three mountain goats hurtling my way, right along the trail I had just walked. And they were headed straight for me. I was immediately giddy with joy, goats! Oh, how I wanted to see these whimsical creatures the entire trip and had given up hope. But then I realized that I was in their way with literally nowhere to go because I was on a narrow path on a steep hillside… oh shoot. What now? 

I pulled out my phone because clearly, I had my priorities straight (not). But when they showed no signs of stopping I freaked a little bit and may have also panicked and I think I shouted out something like “Hey goat!” (okay maybe it was more like s**t goats!). 

My shout brought them to an immediate standstill (impressive brakes goats!). The leading goat immediately scurried up the hill creating a mini rock slide and went on the ridge above Joe who was lower down the pass. The middle one and I got to have a brief staring contest and I think we were both thinking something along the lines of, “Well I’m not going to move out of the way, are you?” Eventually, he or she turned around and headed back the trail in the opposite direction, the last goat already deciding it wanted nothing to do with this party and doing the same. 

Video: My encounter with goats

Video: Joe's encounter with the goat that went up the hill after seeing me

My goat encounter paired with the beautiful scenery had me smiling the entire way down.

The descent down was magnificent

Once we arrived at the bottom of the pass, things got a little boring. Not everything can be scenic all the time. Much of the trail was through trees and by then the temps were heating up quickly. We just kept plodding through more fields and meadows trying to stay hydrated. What felt like hours later we arrived at our lunch spot, the crossing at South Fork Imnaha River. I soaked my sore feet, gave my face a quick splash, reapplied my sunscreen, and dunked my ballcap in the cold water anticipating the next four or so miles uphill in the sun. Well... what was supposed to be four miles but was really more like six. 

I discovered the hard way that for the first time the map app on my phone was wrong. Six hot grueling miles. 

The hot trek to Crater Lake

I’m not sure if it was heat exhaustion or just the four days of effort catching up to me, but the first three miles I was moving pretty slow. At least I was moving through. Once I had a snack and we hit more shaded areas I was able to pick up the pace and actually lead in front of Joe but I’m convinced some external force possessed my body and gave it one last burst of energy. 

After what felt like an eternity we finally saw the sign, the sign for Crater Lake (no not the one you are thinking). 

First view of Crater Lake

We made our way slowly around the lake looking for a good campsite, many of them already occupied, when we heard it, thunder. Oh crap. 

That ominous cloud was heading straight for us

We finally found a good spot completely unoccupied and tucked away on the other side of the lake as the thunder increased in frequency and our blue sky was traded for some ominous storm clouds. Double crap. 

I made quick work of my tent, the fastest pitch I’ve ever achieved, and not even a minute later the rain came. Then the pea-sized hail. More booms of thunder. 

Video: Sudden hailstorm in the mountains

For the first time, I used my GPS messenger to bring up the weather forecast (thank you emergency preparedness supplies!). Luckily the storm was only going to last an hour. So we huddled up in our tents until the blue skies returned. The temps were already dipping though and it was getting cold so we made quick work of dinner and planned an early night. 

Pretty sweet digs for our final night

The plan was to wake early, break down camp as quickly as possible, and try to have pizza in our bellies in town by one in the afternoon. 

Would it truly be all downhill from here or would nature throw some more curveballs our way?

Last night of stars in the Wallowas at Crater Lake

Distance Logged 13.1 mi

Ascent 3391 ft

Descent 2936 ft