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| Brrrrrrrr |
We counted our blessings for predicting the cold snap and sleeping with our water filters. A frozen water filter is no good since it can actually make it useless and while we have emergency backup tablets we would rather not use them. Breaking down camp wasn’t fun in the sub-freezing temps, but we were motivated by the desire to move our frigid bodies to create warmth. So despite numb hands and numb everything else we somehow got the packs loaded up.
We knew that our day was going to start off with a bang as we needed to traverse Hawkins Pass within a mile from camp. My sore limbs were still so frozen that my brain couldn’t register any other feeling other than cold so that was a blessing. As we slowly made our way up the switchbacks we darted in and out of patches of the rising sun. Each patch of warmth felt like heaven and was just motivation to reach the next one. It felt like nature rewarding us for our effort, as if to say, "Don't worry, I've got your back as long as you keep going forward."
We passed by Little Frazier Lake, a beautifully picturesque lake nestled between mountains.
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| Little Frazier Lake |
We had just started the real ascent when both Joe and I were struck with the same horror or needing to use the restroom and pronto. I don’t share much bathroom talk, some people can’t even fathom pooping in the woods let alone having it be considered a totally normal occurrence, but digging cat holes and carrying around used t.p. is just one of those things we've completely accepted and gotten used to.
The mixture of dehydrated food, heavy exertion, and altitude changes create the perfect trifecta though, and more often than not when you need to go, you need to go. Immediately. Thank goodness for a small patch of trees wedged against a cliff because otherwise, someone may have gotten a show they had no intention of ever seeing.
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| See that patch of trees to the right of Joe? Yeah. |
So with that obstacle out of the way and feeling lighter in every sense, we continued up the pass.
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| The last photo I took before the top |
We made fairly good time, and by we, I mean that I made good time, because Joe always makes good time. Passes are my favorite climbs because immediately you are treated with a fantastic view of the other side that is completely new to you. We had a quick snack and talked to a fellow hiker who arrived a few minutes later, but moved on quickly since we still had many miles to tackle.
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| The top of Hawkins Pass |
Video: Starting the descent down the pass
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Here’s where my day got infinitely better. I should mention before starting this adventure I had a personal bucket list of things I hoped to see. After our stint at Glacier Lake, I was convinced that I was out of luck but as I was slowly making my way down the pass, Joe farther ahead leading, I heard a hiker from below shout "GOAT!!"
I turned around and there they were, three mountain goats hurtling my way, right along the trail I had just walked. And they were headed straight for me. I was immediately giddy with joy, goats! Oh, how I wanted to see these whimsical creatures the entire trip and had given up hope. But then I realized that I was in their way with literally nowhere to go because I was on a narrow path on a steep hillside… oh shoot. What now?
I pulled out my phone because clearly, I had my priorities straight (not). But when they showed no signs of stopping I freaked a little bit and may have also panicked and I think I shouted out something like “Hey goat!” (okay maybe it was more like s**t goats!).
My shout brought them to an immediate standstill (impressive brakes goats!). The leading goat immediately scurried up the hill creating a mini rock slide and went on the ridge above Joe who was lower down the pass. The middle one and I got to have a brief staring contest and I think we were both thinking something along the lines of, “Well I’m not going to move out of the way, are you?” Eventually, he or she turned around and headed back the trail in the opposite direction, the last goat already deciding it wanted nothing to do with this party and doing the same.
Video: My encounter with goats
Video: Joe's encounter with the goat that went up the hill after seeing me
My goat encounter paired with the beautiful scenery had me smiling the entire way down.
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| The descent down was magnificent |
Once we arrived at the bottom of the pass, things got a little boring. Not everything can be scenic all the time. Much of the trail was through trees and by then the temps were heating up quickly. We just kept plodding through more fields and meadows trying to stay hydrated. What felt like hours later we arrived at our lunch spot, the crossing at South Fork Imnaha River. I soaked my sore feet, gave my face a quick splash, reapplied my sunscreen, and dunked my ballcap in the cold water anticipating the next four or so miles uphill in the sun. Well... what was supposed to be four miles but was really more like six.
I discovered the hard way that for the first time the map app on my phone was wrong. Six hot grueling miles.
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| The hot trek to Crater Lake |
I’m not sure if it was heat exhaustion or just the four days of effort catching up to me, but the first three miles I was moving pretty slow. At least I was moving through. Once I had a snack and we hit more shaded areas I was able to pick up the pace and actually lead in front of Joe but I’m convinced some external force possessed my body and gave it one last burst of energy.
After what felt like an eternity we finally saw the sign, the sign for Crater Lake (no not the one you are thinking).
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| First view of Crater Lake |
We made our way slowly around the lake looking for a good campsite, many of them already occupied, when we heard it, thunder. Oh crap.
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| That ominous cloud was heading straight for us |
We finally found a good spot completely unoccupied and tucked away on the other side of the lake as the thunder increased in frequency and our blue sky was traded for some ominous storm clouds. Double crap.
I made quick work of my tent, the fastest pitch I’ve ever achieved, and not even a minute later the rain came. Then the pea-sized hail. More booms of thunder.
Video: Sudden hailstorm in the mountains
For the first time, I used my GPS messenger to bring up the weather forecast (thank you emergency preparedness supplies!). Luckily the storm was only going to last an hour. So we huddled up in our tents until the blue skies returned. The temps were already dipping though and it was getting cold so we made quick work of dinner and planned an early night.
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| Pretty sweet digs for our final night |
The plan was to wake early, break down camp as quickly as possible, and try to have pizza in our bellies in town by one in the afternoon.
Would it truly be all downhill from here or would nature throw some more curveballs our way?
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| Last night of stars in the Wallowas at Crater Lake |
Distance Logged 13.1 mi
Ascent 3391 ft
Descent 2936 ft
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